Physics of Surfing - SIO 87
(http://topex.ucsd.edu/ps)

Wednesday 5:00-5:50 PM Munk Conference Rm. Scripps Inst. of Oceanography
(See map on how to get to the Munk Conference Rm.  There is a UCSD Shuttle bus that runs untill 9 PM.)

David Sandwell  -  Scripps Inst. Of Oceanography -  dsandwell@ucsd.edu

This 1 credit freshman seminar will cover three topics in physics related to surfing:  1) generation, propagation, and breaking of waves; 2) the energetics of a surfer riding a wave; and 3)  the fluid mechanics of a surfboard.  There will be at least one lab on the SIO pier.  Prerequisite:  Some physics or calculus.

DATE
TOPIC
ASSIGNMENT/HW
LECTURER
27 SEP
Introductions
Tour of Scripps
Read Ch. 8 of Oceanography - Waves and Water Dynamics Sandwell
04 OCT
Wave generation, propagation HW 1.  Ch. 8, problems 5, 9, 12, 16
HW 2. exercises from class notes
Sandwell
11 OCT
Wave refraction; What makes Black's so good.
Lab 1:  Measure wave period
hand in HW 1
hand in HW2
Sandwell
18 OCT
Energetics of surfing
hand in Lab 1.
read about linear acceleration
Sandwell
21 OCT
Saturday
optional wave experiment 8:30 AM near pier - 2005

Sandwell/Becker
25 OCT
Dynamics of the surf zone read about harmonic oscillator Guza
01 NOV
Fluid mechanics of a surfboard intro. fluid mechanics reading Guest
08 NOV
Lab 2a:  Measure linear and harmonic accelerations
(attend either NOV 08  or NOV 15)
get data
Sandwell/Becker
15 NOV
Lab 2b:  Measure displacements with GPS 
(attend either NOV 08  or NOV 15)
get data
Sandwell/Becker
18 NOV
Saturday
experiment, 8:30 AM near SIO pier
Sandwell/Becker
22 NOV
No Class



29 NOV
Student presentations/pizza
Pier Experiment - 2005
Beach Experimen - 2005
hand in Lab 2.
present results from labs and experiments
Sandwell