Physics of Surfing - SIO 87
(http://topex.ucsd.edu/ps)

Wednesday 5:00-5:50 PM Munk Conference Rm. Scripps Inst. of Oceanography
(See map on how to get to the Munk Conference Rm.  There is a UCSD Shuttle bus that runs untill 9 PM.)

David Sandwell  -  Scripps Inst. Of Oceanography -  dsandwell@ucsd.edu

This 1 credit freshman seminar will cover three topics in physics related to surfing:  1) generation, propagation, and breaking of waves; 2) the energetics of a surfer riding a wave; and 3)  the fluid mechanics of a surfboard.  There will be at least one lab on the SIO pier.  Prerequisite:  Some physics or calculus.

DATE
 TOPIC
 ASSIGNMENT/HW
 LECTURER
27 SEP
 Introductions
Tour of Scripps		 Read Ch. 8 of Oceanography - Waves and Water Dynamics Sandwell
04 OCT
 Wave generation, propagation HW 1.  Ch. 8, problems 5, 9, 12, 16
HW 2. exercises from class notes		 Sandwell
11 OCT
 Wave refraction; What makes Black's so good.
Lab 1:  Measure wave period		 hand in HW 1
hand in HW2		 Sandwell
18 OCT
 Energetics of surfing
 hand in Lab 1.
read about linear acceleration		 Sandwell
25 OCT
 Dynamics of the surf zone - pizza
 read about harmonic oscillator Guza
28 OCT
Saturday		 experiment 8:30 AM near SIO pier
Sandwell/Becker/Kim
01 NOV
 Fluid mechanics of a surfboard intro. fluid mechanics reading Guest
08 NOV
 Lab 2:  Measure linear and harmonic accelerations
(attend either NOV 08  or NOV 15) - results
 get data
 Sandwell/Becker/Kim
15 NOV
 Lab 2:  Measure linear and harmonic accelerations
(attend either NOV 08  or NOV 15) results
 get data
 Sandwell/Becker/Kim
18 NOV
Saturday
 experiment, 8:30 AM near SIO pier
Sandwell/Becker/Kim
22 NOV
No Class


29 NOV
 Student presentations/pizza
Beach Experiment 1 - 2005
Beach Experimen  2 - 2005
 hand in Lab 2.
present results from labs and experiments		 Sandwell

Movies from past experiments:

Fall 2003:          EXP05  EXP07
Spring 2005:     EXP08  EXP11
Fall 2006:          EXP12  EXP15