Physics of Surfing - SIO 87
(http://topex.ucsd.edu/ps)
Wednesday 5:00-5:50 PM
Munk Conference Rm. Scripps Inst. of Oceanography
(See
map on how to get to the Munk
Conference Rm. There is a UCSD Shuttle bus that runs untill 9 PM.)
David Sandwell
- Scripps Inst. Of Oceanography Ð dsandwell@ucsd.edu
Stefan Llewellyn Smith
Ð Dept. of Mech. and Aerospace Eng. - - sgls@ucsd.edu
This 1 credit freshman
seminar will cover three topics in physics related to surfing:
generation, propagation, and breaking of waves; the energetics of a surfer riding
a wave; and the fluid mechanics of a surfboard. There will be at least
one lab on the SIO pier. Prerequisite: Some physics or calculus.
The preparation of this
class was assisted by NSF grant CTS0133978.
|
DATE |
TOPIC |
ASSIGNMENT/HW |
LECTURER |
|
30 MAR |
Introductions Tour of Scripps |
Read Ch. 8 of Oceanography
- Waves and Water Dynamics p.
236-253 |
Sandwell/ Llewellyn Smith |
|
06 APR |
Wave generation, propagation, and
refraction |
HW 1. Ch. 8, problems 5, 9,
12, 16 |
Sandwell |
|
13 APR |
Lab
1: Measure wave period, experiment with accelerometer |
hand in HW 1 |
Sandwell |
|
20 APR |
Dynamics of the surf zone |
hand in
Exercises1 |
Guza |
|
23 APR |
|
|
|
|
27 APR |
Lab
2: Measure linear and harmonic accelerations |
|
Sandwell |
|
04 MAY |
hand in Lab
1. |
Sandwell |
|
|
11 MAY |
intro. fluid mechanics
reading |
Llewellyn Smith |
|
|
18 MAY |
Lab
2: Measure linear and harmonic accelerations optional wave-riding |
Data: train2.txt, harmonic2.txt Plots: train2.pdf, harmonic2.pdf |
Sandwell/ Llewellyn Smith |
|
21 MAY |
experiment, 8:30 AM
near SIO pier) |
|
Sandwell/ Llewellyn Smith |
|
25 MAY |
Student
presentations/pizza |
hand in Lab
2. present
results from labs and experiments |
Sandwell/ Llewellyn Smith |
