Physics of Surfing - SIO 87

Wednesday 5:00-5:50 PM Munk Conference Rm. Scripps Inst. of Oceanography
(See map on how to get to the Munk Conference Rm.  There is a UCSD Shuttle bus that runs untill 9 PM.)

David Sandwell  -  Scripps Inst. Of Oceanography -
Stefan Llewellyn Smith - Mechanical and Aerospace Engineering -

This 1 credit freshman seminar will cover three topics in physics related to surfing:  1) generation, propagation, and breaking of waves; 2) the energetics of a surfer riding a wave; and 3)  the fluid mechanics of a surfboard.  There will be at least one lab on the SIO pier.  Prerequisite:  Some physics or calculus.

Surfing to Academic Success

Physics of Surfing Class Introduces Students to Research
Ioana Patringenaru,  June 16, 2008

class email

02 APR
Tour of Scripps
Read Ch. 8 of Oceanography - Waves and Water Dynamics
Watch movie: Waves Across the Pacific
Llewellyn Smith
09 APR
Wave generation, propagation HW 1.  Ch. 8, problems 5, 9, 12, 16
HW 2. exercises from class notes
16 APR
Wave refraction; What makes Black's so good.
Lab 1:  Measure wave period
hand in HW 1
hand in HW2
Optional Reading - Blacks Beach, 1947
23 APR
Energetics of surfing
hand in Lab 1.
read about linear acceleration
30 APR
Sea cliff erosion - pizza
read about harmonic oscillator  Mike Olsen
Liz Johnstone
 03 MAY
 experiment 8:30 AM near SIO pier
get data for EXP16

07 MAY
Fluid mechanics of a surfboard intro. fluid mechanics reading  Llewellyn Smith
14 MAY
Where the Swell Begins

Walter Munk
21 MAY
Lab 2:  Measure linear and harmonic accelerations.  Lab 2 is only required for students who do not participate in either of the beach experiments.  There will be a group presentation on 04 JUN.
get data for EXP17

24 MAY
experiment, 8:30 AM near SIO pier get data for EXP18

28 MAY
Analysis of data from experiments and lab.  This time will be spent preparing the presentations in 04 JUN.
Meet in my computer lab anytime after 4 PM, 1102 IGPP (cell 858 663 9426)

04 JUN
Student presentations of experiments:
03 May Beach Experiment
21 May Lab
24 May Beach Experiment
- pizza

Movies from past experiments:

Fall 2003:          EXP05  EXP07
Spring 2005:     EXP08  EXP11
Fall 2006:          EXP12  EXP15
Spring 2008      EXP16a EXP16b EXP17 EXP18a EXP18b