Physics
of Surfing - SIO 87
(http://topex.ucsd.edu/ps)
| DATE |
TOPIC |
ASSIGNMENT/HW |
LECTURER |
| 02
APR |
Introductions Tour of Scripps |
Read
Ch. 8 of Oceanography
- Waves
and Water Dynamics Watch movie: Waves Across the Pacific |
Sandwell, Llewellyn Smith |
| 09
APR |
Wave generation, propagation | HW
1. Ch.
8, problems 5, 9, 12, 16 HW 2. exercises from class notes |
Sandwell |
| 16
APR |
Wave
refraction; What makes Black's so good. Lab 1: Measure wave period |
hand in HW 1 hand in HW2 Optional Reading - Blacks Beach, 1947 |
Sandwell |
| 23
APR |
Energetics of surfing |
hand in Lab 1. read about linear acceleration |
Sandwell |
| 30
APR |
Sea
cliff erosion - pizza |
read about harmonic oscillator | Mike
Olsen Liz Johnstone |
| 03
MAY Saturday |
experiment
8:30 AM near SIO pier |
get data for EXP16 |
|
| 07
MAY |
Fluid mechanics of a surfboard | intro. fluid mechanics reading | Llewellyn
Smith |
| 14
MAY |
Where
the Swell Begins |
Walter
Munk |
|
| 21
MAY |
Lab 2: Measure
linear and harmonic
accelerations. Lab 2 is only required for students who do not
participate in either of the beach experiments. There will be a
group presentation on 04 JUN. |
get
data for EXP17 |
|
| 24
MAY Saturday |
experiment, 8:30 AM near SIO pier | get data for EXP18 |
|
| 28
MAY |
Analysis
of data from experiments and lab. This time will be spent
preparing the presentations in 04 JUN. Meet in my computer lab anytime after 4 PM, 1102 IGPP (cell 858 663 9426) |
|
|
| 04
JUN |
Student
presentations of experiments: 03 May Beach Experiment 21 May Lab 24 May Beach Experiment - pizza |
|