Physics of Surfing - SIO 87

Wednesday 5:00-5:50 PM Munk Conference Rm. Scripps Inst. of Oceanography
(See map on how to get to the Munk Conference Rm.  There is a UCSD Shuttle bus that runs untill 9 PM.)

David Sandwell  -  Scripps Inst. Of Oceanography -
Stefan Llewellyn Smith - Mechanical and Aerospace Engineering -

This 1 credit freshman seminar will cover three topics in physics related to surfing:  1) generation, propagation, and breaking of waves; 2) the energetics of a surfer riding a wave; and 3)  the fluid mechanics of a surfboard.  There will be at least one lab on the SIO pier.  Prerequisite:  Some physics or calculus.

A break from classes to learn how waves break
Tony Perry, Los Angeles Times, May 3, 2009

Surfing to Academic Success

Physics of Surfing Class Introduces Students to Research
Ioana Patringenaru,  June 16, 2008

class email

01 APR
Tour of Scripps
Read Ch. 8 of Oceanography - Waves and Water Dynamics
Watch movie: Waves Across the Pacific
Llewellyn Smith
08 APR
Wave generation, propagation HW 1.  Ch. 8, problems 5, 9, 12, 16
HW 2. exercises from class notes
15 APR
Wave refraction; What makes Black's so good.
Lab 1:  Measure wave period
hand in HW 1
hand in HW2
Optional Reading - Blacks Beach, 1947
22 APR
Energetics of surfing
hand in Lab 1.
read about linear acceleration
29 APR
The Surf Zone
read about harmonic oscillator Bob Guza
 02 MAY
 experiment 8:30 AM near SIO pier - get data and photos

 06 MAY
 Where the Swell Begins

Walter Munk
13 MAY
Fluid mechanics of a surfboard
Llewellyn Smith
20 May

22 MAY
experiment, 5:00 PM near SIO pier  - get data and photos
call for details 858 663 9426

27 MAY
Analysis of data from experiments and lab.  This time will be spent preparing the presentations in 03 JUN.
Meet in my computer lab anytime after 4 PM, 1102 IGPP (cell 858 663 9426)

03 JUN
Student presentations of experiments:
02 May Beach Experiment
22 May Beach Experiment
- pizza

Movies from past experiments:

Fall 2003:          EXP05  EXP07
Spring 2005:     EXP08  EXP11
Fall 2006:          EXP12  EXP15
Spring 2008      EXP16a EXP16b EXP17 EXP18a EXP18b
Spring 2009      EXP19a EXP19b EXP20