Physics of Surfing - SIO 87
(http://topex.ucsd.edu/ps)

Thursday 5:00-5:50 PM Revelle Conference Rm. Scripps Inst. of Oceanography
(See map on how to get to the Revelle Conference Rm.  Room 4301 is on the top floor of the 4000 Bldg.
There is a UCSD Shuttle bus that runs untill 9 PM.)


David Sandwell  -  Scripps Inst. Of Oceanography -  dsandwell@ucsd.edu
Stefan Llewellyn Smith - Mechanical and Aerospace Engineering - sgls@ucsd.edu

This 1 credit freshman seminar will cover three topics in physics related to surfing:  1) generation, propagation, and breaking of waves; 2) the energetics of a surfer riding a wave; and 3)  the fluid mechanics of a surfboard.  There will be at least one lab on the SIO pier.  Prerequisite:  Some physics or calculus.

A break from classes to learn how waves break
Tony Perry, Los Angeles Times, May 3, 2009


Surfing to Academic Success

Physics of Surfing Class Introduces Students to Research
Ioana Patringenaru,  June 16, 2008


class email

DATE
TOPIC
ASSIGNMENT/HW
LECTURER
31 MAR
Introductions
Tour of Scripps
Read Ch. 8 of Oceanography - Waves and Water Dynamics
Watch movie: Waves Across the Pacific
Sandwell,
Llewellyn Smith
07 APR
Wave generation, propagation, refraction:
What makes Blacks so good
HW 1.  Ch. 8, problems 5, 9, 12, 16
Sandwell
14 APR
Energetics of a surfer
Lab 1:  Measure wave period
Optional Reading - Blacks Beach, 1947
Sandwell
 21 APR
test of surfboard vibrations
read about linear acceleration Sandwell
28 APR
Dynamics of the Surf Zone
hand in Lab 1. hand in HW1
read about harmonic oscillator
Bob Guza
 05 MAY
Storms and Wave Generation
surfboard vibration experiment

Sam Iacobellis
 07 MAY
Saturday
experiment 8:30 AM near SIO pier

12 MAY
Fluid mechanics of a surfboard

Llewellyn Smith
19 May
Analysis of data from experiments and lab.  This time will be spent preparing the presentations in 02 JUN.
Meet in my computer lab anytime after 4 PM, 1102 IGPP (cell 858 663 9426)


26 MAY
Analysis of data from experiments and lab.  This time will be spent preparing the presentations in 02 JUN.
Meet in my computer lab anytime after 4 PM, 1102 IGPP (cell 858 663 9426)

 
02 JUN
Student presentations of experiments:
07 May Beach Experiment
21 May Beach Experiment
- pizza



Movies from past experiments:

Fall 2003:          EXP05  EXP07
Spring 2005:     EXP08  EXP11
Fall 2006:          EXP12  EXP15
Spring 2008      EXP16a EXP16b EXP17 EXP18a EXP18b
Spring 2009      EXP19a EXP19b EXP20
Spring 2010      EXP21  EXP22 EXP23
Spring 2011      EXP24  EXP25