Physics of Surfing - SIO 87
(http://topex.ucsd.edu/ps)

Wednesday 5:00-5:50 PM Munk Conference Rm. Scripps Inst. of Oceanography
(See map on how to get to the Munk Conference Rm.  There is a UCSD Shuttle bus that runs untill 9 PM.)

David Sandwell  -  Scripps Inst. Of Oceanography -  dsandwell@ucsd.edu
Stefan Llewellyn Smith - Mechanical and Aerospace Engineering - sgls@ucsd.edu

This 1 credit freshman seminar will cover three topics in physics related to surfing:  1) generation, propagation, and breaking of waves; 2) the energetics of a surfer riding a wave; and 3)  the fluid mechanics of a surfboard.  There will be at least one lab on the SIO pier.  Prerequisite:  Some physics or calculus.

A break from classes to learn how waves break
Tony Perry, Los Angeles Times, May 3, 2009


Surfing to Academic Success

Physics of Surfing Class Introduces Students to Research
Ioana Patringenaru,  June 16, 2008


class email

DATE
TOPIC
ASSIGNMENT/HW
LECTURER
31 MAR
Introductions
Tour of Scripps
Read Ch. 8 of Oceanography - Waves and Water Dynamics
Watch movie: Waves Across the Pacific
Sandwell,
Llewellyn Smith
07 APR
Wave generation, propagation HW 1.  Ch. 8, problems 5, 9, 12, 16
HW 2. optional exercises from class notes
Sandwell
14 APR
Wave refraction; What makes Black's so good.
Lab 1:  Measure wave period
hand in HW1
Optional Reading - Blacks Beach, 1947
Sandwell
21 APR
Energetics of surfing
hand in Lab 1. hand in HW1
read about linear acceleration
Sandwell
28 APR
The Sound of Climate Change
read about harmonic oscillator Walter Munk
 01 MAY
Saturday
 experiment 8:30 AM near SIO pier


 05 MAY
Storms and Wave Generation

Sam Iacobellis
12 MAY
Fluid mechanics of a surfboard
Llewellyn Smith
19 May
Analysis of data from experiments and lab.  This time will be spent preparing the presentations in 02 JUN.
Meet in my computer lab anytime after 4 PM, 1102 IGPP (cell 858 663 9426)


22 MAY
Saturday
experiment, 8:30 PM near SIO pier
call for details 858 663 9426


26 MAY
Analysis of data from experiments and lab.  This time will be spent preparing the presentations in 02 JUN.
Meet in my computer lab anytime after 4 PM, 1102 IGPP (cell 858 663 9426)

 
02 JUN
Student presentations of experiments:
02 May Beach Experiment
22 May Beach Experiment
- pizza



Movies from past experiments:

Fall 2003:          EXP05  EXP07
Spring 2005:     EXP08  EXP11
Fall 2006:          EXP12  EXP15
Spring 2008      EXP16a EXP16b EXP17 EXP18a EXP18b
Spring 2009      EXP19a EXP19b EXP20