Physics of Surfing - SIO 87
(http://topex.ucsd.edu/ps)
Wednesday 5:00-5:50 PM
Munk Conference Rm. Scripps Inst. of Oceanography
(See
map on how to get to the Munk
Conference Rm. There is a UCSD Shuttle bus that runs untill 9 PM.)
David Sandwell
- Scripps Inst. Of Oceanography Ð dsandwell@ucsd.edu
Stefan Llewellyn Smith
Ð Dept. of Mech. and Aerospace Eng. - - sgls@ucsd.edu
This 1 credit freshman
seminar will cover three topics in physics related to surfing:
generation, propagation, and breaking of waves; the energetics of a surfer
riding a wave; and the fluid mechanics of a surfboard. There will be at
least one lab on the SIO pier. Prerequisite: Some physics or
calculus.
The preparation of this
class was assisted by NSF grant CTS0133978.
|
DATE |
TOPIC |
ASSIGNMENT/HW |
LECTURER |
|
30 MAR |
Introductions Tour of Scripps |
Sandwell/ Llewellyn Smith |
|
|
06 APR |
Wave generation, propagation, and
refraction |
HW 1. Ch. 8, problems 5, 9, 12, 16 HW 2. exercises from
class notes |
Sandwell |
|
13 APR |
Movie: "Making the
Call" Lab
1: Measure wave period |
hand in HW 1 hand in HW2 |
Sandwell |
|
20 APR |
Dynamics of the surf zone |
hand in Lab
1. |
Guza |
|
23 APR |
|
|
|
|
27 APR |
|
Sandwell |
|
|
04 MAY |
intro. fluid mechanics
reading |
Llewellyn Smith |
|
|
11 MAY |
Lab
2: Measure linear and harmonic accelerations (attend either May 11
or May 18) |
Sandwell/ Llewellyn Smith |
|
|
18 MAY |
Lab
2: Measure linear and harmonic accelerations (attend either May 11
or May 18) |
Sandwell/ Llewellyn Smith |
|
|
21 MAY |
experiment, 8:30 AM
near SIO pier) |
|
Sandwell/ Llewellyn Smith |
|
01 JUNE |
Student
presentations/pizza |
hand in Lab
2. present
results from labs and experiments |
Sandwell/ Llewellyn Smith |
