Physics
of Surfing - SIO 87
(http://topex.ucsd.edu/ps)
| DATE |
TOPIC |
ASSIGNMENT/HW |
LECTURER |
| 01
APR |
Introductions Tour of Scripps |
Read
Ch. 8 of Oceanography
- Waves
and Water Dynamics Watch movie: Waves Across the Pacific |
Sandwell, Llewellyn Smith |
| 08
APR |
Wave generation, propagation | HW
1. Ch.
8, problems 5, 9, 12, 16 HW 2. exercises from class notes |
Sandwell |
| 15
APR |
Wave
refraction; What makes Black's so good. Lab 1: Measure wave period |
hand in HW 1 hand in HW2 Optional Reading - Blacks Beach, 1947 |
Sandwell |
| 22
APR |
Energetics of surfing |
hand in Lab 1. read about linear acceleration |
Sandwell |
| 29
APR |
The Surf Zone |
read about harmonic oscillator | Bob
Guza |
| 02
MAY Saturday |
experiment
8:30 AM near SIO pier - get data and photos |
||
| 06 MAY |
Where the Swell Begins |
Walter Munk |
|
| 13
MAY |
Fluid mechanics of a surfboard | Llewellyn
Smith |
|
| 20
May |
NO CLASS |
||
| 22
MAY Friday |
experiment, 5:00 AM
near SIO pier call for details 858 663 9426 |
||
| 27
MAY |
Analysis
of data from experiments and lab. This time will be spent
preparing the presentations in 03 JUN. Meet in my computer lab anytime after 4 PM, 1102 IGPP (cell 858 663 9426) |
|
|
| 03
JUN |
Student
presentations of experiments: 02 May Beach Experiment 22 May Beach Experiment - pizza |
|